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Getting around
Venice may have 150 canals and 118 islands but walking around its traffic-free centre is a delight. For travelling on the canals the waterbuses, or vaporetto, are good value, especially with an unlimited travel ticket or a Venice Card, which includes free or reduced admission to museums and other attractions. Water taxis are expensive, fast and luxurious. Gondolas are expensive, slow and romantic.
The Grand Canal
The city’s main artery snakes through Venice for 2.5 miles with splendid bridges, including the Rialto, which carries shops across the canal, and nearly 200 palaces with their wonderful mix of Renaissance, Byzantine, Baroque and Classical architecture.
Art collections
Great art is everywhere but two collections stand out. The Accademia Galleries chronicle the development of Venetian art and include works by Titian, Bellini, Piero della Francesca and Veneziano. By way of contrast, the Peggy Guggenheim Collection is an impressive record of early to mid-20th century art by the likes of Picasso, Max Ernst, Pollock, Giacometti and Henry Moore, all housed in an attractive 18th century palace.
Piazza San Marco
Described by Napoleon as ‘The most beautiful drawing-room in Europe’, St Mark’s Square is a place to relax and people-watch or just stare in awe at Saint Mark’s Basilica, the Church of San Geminiano and the Doges Palace.
The Lido and islands
Torcello was once a city larger than Venice. San Michele is the cemetery island. Murano is famous for its glassmaking. Burano is known for its painted fishermen’s cottages and lace making. Mazzorbo is covered with vineyards and orchards. And the Lido di Venezia is an 11-mile sandbar and beach resort famous for its film festival held each August/September.
Shopping
This is Italy and you’ll find plenty of elegant designer fashion stores, especially around St Mark’s Square. Local crafts include lace making, glassmaking and, of course, mask-making. There has been a market on the site of the famous Rialto since 1097, and even if you’re not shopping the Fresh Produce Market and Pescheria are worth a visit.
Eating and drinking
Seafood is truly excellent and the prices can reflect this, but it is possible to find relatively inexpensive food. Look out for neighbourhood bars, or bacari, where you’ll find tramezzini, small, tasty half-sandwiches, and cicchetti, little toothpick snacks. You’ll probably want to save some money before visiting Venice institutions such as Caffè Florian, Gran Caffè Quadri and Harry’s Bar.
Carnevale
Masks are sold all year but the actual Carnival is around two weeks leading up to Lent. Its origins go back to the 13th century when masks and costumes were worn to help break down the rigid social conventions. Expect the city to be packed for a series of gala balls, concerts, street parties and a stunning firework finale.
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